Windows 10 Home - Boot image is corrupt. The system cannot boot.

Hi,

That would certainly be an easy fix if that turned out to be the case... Although it wasn't "easy" getting to that point...

It is certainly possible that your video card simply had a bad connection... or it's power connection...

My older monitor flickered a bit, and had some horizontal lines on light colored screens like the Forum or email pages... They would eventually go away once things were good and warm...

I bought a new monitor around Christmas, and all that stuff is gone...

The ISO\Flash Drive stuff is actually fairly easy...

Windows 7 even has a tool to create one for your machine in addition to the RUFUS I mentioned..

Very easy to use...  https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=56485

My biggest objection is that it installs... The one from RUFUS does not...

I think the problem you had before with the Flash Drive was for two reasons...

You "Extracted" the ISO to the Flash Drive... That does not usually work... I have read where some people claim that is possible, but it worked for me maybe once out of 20-30 tries...

Mostly because the boot files are not correct when done that way...

The second problem may be how the Flash Drive was selected... I bet I went 8 years thinking my Gigabyte motherboard would not boot from a Flash Drive... I thought I had tried every possibility...

Then I stumbled across someone discussing this... There are two ways... Both require using Boot Options at the Gigabyte screen... Start hitting F12 as soon as you see Gigabyte screen...

Select +HDD which opens a menu that has a USB HDD, and select that...

Or even easier... simply select USB HDD at the first screen that comes up after hitting F12...

If you don't need to try this, that is great, but if you do, it's a simple (usually) thing to do...

When you boot with the Flash Drive, you also have access to multiple Repair Functions, and the Command Prompt....

A DVD will work too... Just slower...

BTW... You mentioned System Restore not working as well as before, and I mentioned Acronis...

Acronis is nice to have, but Windows also has a built-in Imaging feature...

It is no longer supported, but works on most machines... especially those using Legacy Bios as ours do... You will need bootable Installation|Repair media to reload an image though...

The Imaging tool will ask if you want to create a CD when it completes, or you can use installation media's Repair feature...

The tool basically takes a snapshot of your OS drive... Then reloads it if you should need it...

You can find it in Control Panel... It's called "Backup and Restore Windows 7"...

You can save the image to most any drive you choose...

Hi,

I can't guarantee that a fresh installation of Windows 10 would solve the problem...

You might have a problem with your OS hard drive for instance, but I think that would be a good place to start... There is a good possibility that it has become corrupted from all the crashes, updates , and etc...

If that is what you decide to do, you might as well download a new ISO... Your original 1803 version will immediately try to update to 1809... 1809 may then immediately try to update to the Feature Update that is likely to be causing problems...

1809 is the newest available for public download at the moment... There is a good chance it will actually update to a newer build during the installation if you have your internet connected...

1809 may download with the most recent update already included, but that is something I am not sure about... It may download October 2018 Update (1809) Build 17763.1... which is the original...

Unfortunately there is no way to tell until it installs...

Hi,

I use something similar to the CoolerMaster you mention on my Desktops... They are both quieter and cool better than the stock Intel Heatsink\Fan..

As far as the F8 goes... On the bottom of the ASUS Splash screen you should see several selections listed for entering Bios and etc.. Your old machine probably had these as well...

On the machine I am currently using for instance, they say "Press F2 or Del To Enter Bios" and "Press F11 For Boot Menu", which would be similar to the F8 on your machine..  This lists all of the drives and Boot Selections on the machine...

Optical Drives, USB Boot Devices and\or Flash Drives will have both the normal Device, and the same device with the "UEFI" option prefix...

If F8 is not the right key, or you do not click it in time, the computer will simply display a "Select Boot Device" type error message, or will boot to the existing selected Boot Device... Since you have nothing installed yet, it would be the DVD or nothing...

Your case may or may not have a "Reset" button in addition to the power button... This simply restarts the computer and does not change settings.. It is normally used when Windows freezes during boot...

If you don't have one, just hold down the power button instead...

Hi,

I just found out that the next Windows 10 version (1903) is not scheduled for release until the end of May..

Basically two moths late... So that is one less thing to immediately worry about...

Hi,

They are actually fairly high quality\high performance parts...

The ASUS MoBo is nice... More expensive than I have ever paid for a MoBo...

The Samsung SSD is the top rated SSD of it's type...

The G. Skill memory is also high quality, even though it is not the "Fastest"...

When it comes to memory, the "Fastest" is really not reasonable price or performance wise...

You should get a ASUS manual and quick start sheet with the computer... There may be information as to what the Q-Installer actually does...

There should not be a problem with the Legacy Bios... Simply booting with your "Regular" installation DVD may be enough to trigger everything automatically...

UEFI Bios is primarily for Windows 8, 8.1, and 10, although Windows 7 can be configured to use it...

A lot of people these days are running some form of a LINUX operating system which doesn't use UEFI for instance... The MoBo manufacturer's want to have as large of a market as possible, and will probably continue with the Legacy Bios for quite some time...

Hi,

Here is a link to your motherboard's website... Near the bottom is a "Special Features"...

It mentions an automatic driver download feature for "First Time Installers"...

You might not want to use this though... The reason ?.... It may also install some additional ASUS Utilities that you may not want... I have had problems with some of this type of stuff in the past, as have a good number of others on the Forums...

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/TUF-Z390-PLUS-GAMING/specifications/

Further down it mentions a "Driver Support Disk"....

In reality, Windows 10 will install most everything you need as far as drivers are concerned...

Some may be "Microsoft Basic Drivers", but they will get you up and running.... Others may be the exact same thing provided by ASUS...

You could take a look at what drivers are on the Driver Disk and then look for newer ones...

You could also use the automatic method, depending upon what it downloads, and what you decide to do with the extra ASUS Stuff...

Part of the "Special Features" is a "ASUS Exclusive Features" which lists the Add-On stuff I mentioned...

Personally, I would not install any of it... Just more stuff to potentially cause problems in the future...

Setting the memory for it's rated higher speed would not be damaging to the memory or MoBo...

They are both designed to support doing that...

If you have figured out how to get into the Bios for Boot Order and ETC., it shouldn't be to hard to find the XMP settings... The machine will start and run just fine with whatever the Default is... Setting the XMP is not something that is critical for it to run... Just to get the faster speed...

Should it become necessary, I can probably help you find it... Some times the Bios Settings Documentation is easy to find, and other times not, but most all are somewhat similar...

Hi,

A SSD hooks up just like a SATA HDD... The connections are exactly the same...

What was meant by the "Screws" is how it attaches to the case...

They would either attach it to a 2.5 inch slot, or a 3.5" slot with an adapter...

In addition, your case has two locations, where they can be attached directly to one of the interior walls...

The HDDs use "Screws" for mounting as well... I'm sure you have noticed this...

I see nothing different from your first picture... It is different than what I had looked at yesterday, but I was just selecting stuff from a preconfigured selection and removing stuff...

One of your options came with Windows 10... this does not...

It may be that the "Major Brand" memory is a different price, or a "Different" brand\speed than listed before..

The memory listed is DDR4 2666 speed... This is near the bottom of the speed chart...

DDR4 2133 is the slowest speed...

DDR4 3466 is about half way to the top, and is on average $50 more...

DDR4 4000 and is on average $150 to $250 more...

The fastest is DDR4800 ans is around $750.00...

What is listed would probably be fine... Faster is better, but a lot of times the difference is really hard to notice...

You WILL notice a REALLY BIG difference with the SSD as compared to a HDD.... HUGE !!!

Hi,

I was just attempting to send a message, but it wouldn't go through... I will post it seperate...

Everything seems to be the same except for the SSD and Memory manufacturer...

The Samsung in the M.2 slot would be faster than any "Normal" SSD...

The tech does not seem to be correct about the number of SATA Ports available if you use the M.2 for your SSD...

The Spec page note *2 and *3 state that you lose at least one, or possibly two SATA Ports...

The M.2_2 socket has a much faster potential read\write speed, but you lose two regular SATA Ports for the priviledge..

*1. The PCIe x1_3, PCIe x1_4 slots share bandwidth with PCIe x16_2. The PCIe x16_2 slot runs at x2 mode as default. Please check BIOS for more configuration.

*2. When a device in SATA mode is installed on the M.2_1 socket, SATA_2 port cannot be used.

*3. When a device is installed on the M.2_2 socket, SATA_5/6 port cannot be used.

*4. Supports CPU RAID with Intel® PCIe NVME SSDs. RAID 0 and 1 are supported via a Hyper M.2 X16 series card or on RAID sets created between the onboard M.2 socket and a Hyper M.2 X16 series card.

Hi,

In regard to my comment about the Intel i3 CPU... They are now a quad core with the newer chipsets...

Until recently they were only a dual core...

Hi,

I'm pretty sure you can use the key with your DVD.... I didn't download their ISO... Just used one I had...

When installing you may have the option to select "I Don't Have A Key" and continue the installation...

Then enter the key to Activate once Windows is installed...

The only potential problem is that the key may be for a older version of Windows 10... It would work regardless, but may require installing that version, then upgrading... I doubt that would happen...

Your selection looks like a nice machine... If it were me I would get the i5, or possibly i7, but that is a bunch more money... Since your primary use is audio\video, that would fall mostly on the onboard graphics...

If you were to do a lot of video editing, that would be different...

The only thing questionable is the Inland Professional 480GB SSD... It may be perfectly fine...

It seems the internal chips are made by Toshiba, but is not one of their top of the line drives...

You might be better off with a Crucial or Samsung, but regardless, it will outperform any HDD... 

Fortunately the price of SSDs has dropped a lot... At one time I paid $175 for a 128GB SSD...

ASUS makes good stuff, and I am currently using Overclocked G. Skill memory on one of my machines with no issues...

Hi,

Your "Notes" are in reference to your motherboard which has 6 SATA connections...

Your SSD will use one of these regardless of where it is located in the case...

One of the references concerns using a M.2 SATA Port... This will use the connection from one of the other 6, but I doubt you will be using a M.2 drive, so that is not an issue...

A M.2 drive is basically a SSD without the case, and plugs directly into the motherboard... Like it is using a PCIe slot for instance...

So basically your case has locations for 2 more drives then what your motherboard can connect...

Deactivating a key on Windows 10 and transferring to another machine is possible, but only with the Full Retail Version to the best of my knowledge...

The number might not be working due to the weekend... Might try again tomorrow...

Hi,

It looks like the Windows 10 Home is going for about $110 at the moment... I've seen it on special for $89...

Your case actually has 8 drive locations... It has the regular 6 bays, but has two more locations specifically for 2.5 inch HDD\SSD... They screw onto one of the panels inside the case in a vertical position..

Hi,

I did some checking on the PC's you are considering...

One thing I noticed is that they both use very small motherboards...

Your first link... the Intel i3, has a ASUS mobo with a limited number of slots and SATA connections...

The 2nd link... the Intel i5, has a Gigabyte mobo that is slightly larger, and has more slots and SATA connections... It also has a PCIe x4 slot with which you could use your I\O Crest SATA card.. The ASUS does not...

There is a big difference in price, partly because the first link does not have a HDD or Memory...

You will need memory... The stuff you have is not compatible with these machines...

The 480GB SSD is an off brand... It may or may not be OK...

SSD's are quite small...Mine measures 2 3\4" x 3 9\16" x 1\4 "... Slightly bigger than the 2.5 inch that is claimed...If you are into metric measurement, it is 70mm x 100mm x 7mm...

Two of these will easily fit in a 3.5" HDD slot...

My Gigabyte mobo boots in 45 seconds with a SSD... It takes over 2 minutes with a HDD...

This is a similar time to what you mentioned your's takes...

To me, because of all the testing I do, it turned out to be a must have item...

The case with the 2nd link... Intel i5... is a more expensive case than the other, but has a lot more drive bays... 8 total, but a couple are for SSD size drives only... Like a Notebook HDD...

You could probably get by with the 4 core i3 CPU in the first link... The Gigabyte mobo is an option for that package if that is the way you want to go...

You mention installing Windows 10 with the DVD you purchased... The license may or may not be transferable to the new machine...

If it is a FULL Retail version, it is... If it is a OEM version, it is not...

The DVD would be usable to install Windows 10 without a problem, but it would not Activate if it is a OEM Retail version...

Even with the FULL Retail version, you may need to call Microsoft to Activate it...

Microsoft has ways of determining if the OS was installed on a different machine previously...

Here are some quick notes I made about your links...

I've been looking at buying this pc, with a few upgrades to the PSU, fans and a larger hdd.  Would you give me your opinion about it?      http://www.ecollegepc.com/intel-core-i5-8400-cpu-professional.html

uATX MoBo Gigabyte B360M-D3H

PCIe x16... PCIe x16 @ 4...  1 PCIe x1...  1 PCI

6 SATA... 1 M.2

Inland Professional 480GB SSD... $50... Good price... quality unknown...

This case has room for 8 3.5\2.5 drives... more expensive...

Another one that I've been looking at is this one but it's more expensive and doesn't include RAM, an optical drive or a hdd.  They would cost extra.     http://www.ecollegepc.com/intel-coffeelake.html

Only 2 PCIe x1 slots.. 1x PCIe x16...

uATX MoBo ASUS Prime H310M-A  $71

Spec Not correct... Claims 4xDDR4 Slots... Only has 2xDDR4

4 SATA... 1 M.2

As far as your comment about not including RAM on the more expensive one...

I think you got them switched... The expensive one has RAM... The cheaper one does not, but will need it... The more expensive one is also the one that has a SSD...

The more expensive one has more Drive bays in the Case, more SATA Ports on the mobo, and possibly a PCIe slot combination that may work better for you if you should ever need your 8 port SATA Card..

Hi,

It would be the large orange one with an extra tab like the one you are using...

Marked with a purple arrow in your picture...

There are two smaller slots in between the current 16x and the 8X...

Hi,

That sounds like either the PCIe x16 slot on the motherboard has failed, or the graphics card...

Nothing is going to happen without functioning graphics...

You might try moving the card to the other PCIe x8 slot and see what happens...

I'm thinking you may have tried that before without much luck, but I'm not sure...

Hi,

I think maybe that you need to do a Custom Install and delete everything on the HDD before trying again...

There is probably more than one Windows 10 installation currently on the HDD after multiple installation attempts confusing things...

I don't know if your PC is dying or not... Or just your video card...

The Beep Code you have been getting from your Motherboard that you say indicates a "Graphics\Video" problem has nothing to do with Windows... This is an error message from your Bios that happens before Windows even starts to load... I apologize that I failed to mention that with my last reply..

You either have a bad Graphics card, or a failing motherboard... It is really not possible to determine which is which without replacing one of them...

Windows can not possibly function properly if the Graphics Card or Motherboard is malfunctioning...

The strange thing is that it worked for a week before an update caused problems...

Hi,

I'm not 100% sure about the video card...

There have been issues with Nvidia stuff (Drivers) lately... That is one reason I suggested that if you were buying a replacement, that maybe you should try a AMD instead...

I don't know if a update caused this, or the card... It could be the update, but it might be just a delayed failure of the card...

Try this... Reinstall Windows again using bootable media... Unhook all other drives...

Physically disconnect your computer from the internet... Unhook the cable...

Once Windows is installed, Disable Window Update in Services...

Restart your computer, let it run for awhile and see if it stable..

You might also hook up some of your HDDs if there is anything on them that you might need...

If it is, then hook the internet cable back up...

Use the Windows Update Show-Hide Tool to block all updates... You will need to reset Windows Update to "Manual" first... Have the Show-Hide tool open and ready to run as quickly as possible...

Hide everything... Then one by one turn them back on and run Windows Update...

Do not install any Cumulative or Feature Update for version (1809) yet...

Hi,

That card has a 30 day return policy... NewEgg is pretty good dealing with returns...

If the card is defective you get free return shipping and a full refund...

If the card is not defective and you just want to return it after opening it, it appears there is a 15% restocking fee... I'm not sure about the return shipping...

Here is a link to their policy...

https://kb.newegg.com/knowledge-base/refunds-partial-refunds-and-restocking-fees/

Hi,

They would go in the slot you are currently using...

You do have a 2nd slot, but it is only a 8x speed... The one you are using a 16x speed...

The card would probably work in the slower slot, but that would be a last resort... Providing your Motherboard Bios settings would allow it... I think they would...

This would only be a consideration if there was a hardware problem (damage) to the one you are using...

The cheaper card is about identical in size to the one you are using...

The card from NewEgg is actually a quite small card, but it's fan shroud may make it slightly thicker than your's...

That should not be a problem... There is normally enough room between slots to allow for a Fan...

It is listed as a "Single Slot" card, but does not mention {Low-Profile)...

The card from Superbiz is both Single-Slot and Low Profile...

I guess if I was buying one for my machine, I would go with the one from NewEgg...

It has 2GB memory... the other has 1GB

It is a more modern card and would be faster...

It has a Fan..

It is probably worth the extra $20...

Hi,

I was typing when you posted your reply !

That Legacy motherboard stuff is not what it seems...

Some OLDER Legacy motherboards do not even have a PCIe slot...

They use a AGP Slot for Graphics... I have one of those as well..

Most of the ones I found do not have a separate power connector... I would prefer to have one myself, but they are becoming quite hard to find...

NewEgg has pretty good reviews for both of the Sapphire cards...

They are out of the one like from Superbiz, but they still have a page that has reviews...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102933

Hi,

I think the Sapphire card from Superbiz I mentioned would be a good card for $50...

https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=AT-HD6450

Another would be another Sapphire card from NewEgg for $70...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202237&ignorebbr=1

This is a considerably more modern card, but that does not necessarily mean you would notice a difference...

Part of the problem is that most of the newer cards do not have a VGA Output, which I think you would want for your older monitor...

Another is that they use PCIe x16 version 3.0, and your card is only PCIe x16 version 2.0...

AMD claims they will work on a PCIe x16 version 2.0 connection...

I have had Sapphire cards before... they do not seem to be any better or worse than anyone else's...

It's a tough decision... I have gone through this a couple of times in the last 2-3 years myself...

Like you, one of them was because I thought I had a problem with the current graphics card...

It turned out to be the monitor...

Too bad you are not my neighbor... I have a couple that I could loan\sell to you...

Hi,

This might be the best bang for the buck... https://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=AT-HD6450

There are a number of a bit more expensive models here...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709%204814%20600007320%20600083901%20600286767%20600007779%20600007782&IsNodeId=1

Here is a MSI... https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD6H5ES3200&ignorebbr=1

Anything on the NewEgg page that looks like the MSI would be a good choice, but you would be better off with a HD64xx version...

Here is a bit of a more modern version...  https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137320&ignorebbr=1

I intentionally did not include some stuff from ebay... Used or New... As I don't know enough about the merchants...   There are some cheaper prices there...

Hi,

I'm not sure what type of card you plan to buy, an exact replacement, or something else...

If you were to consider something else, I would suggest a AMD based card instead of the Nvidia...

How that would affect your plans concerning the warranty of the MSI Nvidia card, I don't know...

The reason I mention this is that I have had no issues with any of the AMD cards on my machines...

I am currently running a Radeon HD4850 on the Gigabyte machine, and have been for about 9 years now...

It is probably the oldest AMD model you would want to purchase...

I would replace it for a newer model, but it has a S-Video connection that I don't want to lose...

Your card may be defective, but also may have some type of inherent Nvidia problem...

Hi,

There are all kinds of adapters, but I was thinking about using the HDMI connection from the card, to the HDMI connection on the monitor... It might accomplish nothing, other than maybe narrowing down the card's problem...

Here is a link to a 3 foot HDMI  male-male cable... just as an example of what would work...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16886228006

I looked at images of your card, and it does in fact have the HDMI output...

All you should need to do is unhook the VGA cable on both devices, and use the HDMI instead...

You would need to determine the length you need...

Hi,

Whether your monitor's HDMI port would connect to the card depends on the card...

They most all have more than one connector type, but which ones vary by the model of the card...

If this card is fairly new, I would think there is a good chance it has a HDMI connection...

Hi,

You're right... that color\intensity change doesn't sound right...

One thing you might check, if you haven't, is the VGA connection on the card...

With your newer monitor, do you have an option to use a different type of connection...

Like a HDMI, DVI, or something ? Your monitor may have even come with the needed cable...

Both of my monitors were VGA, but the new one also accepts HDMI, so I tried it...

It does have a bit of sharper display, and seems to respond faster...

The connection may make no difference though... It depends on exactly which component on the card may have a problem... It may just be the VGA converter for instance, but may also be the main part of the processor...

Most manufacturer's require you to return the old part and testing it before sending a new one...

I'm not sure how SquareTrade works... I have a couple of SquareTrade Warranties myself, but have never had to use one...

Some manufacturer's will ship you a new product ahead of time for a fee, and then refund the fee when the old one is received and tested...

I just did a quick check on MSI Graphics Card warranties... Their website claims 36 months...

The serial number is required, so if you do not have the packaging, there should be a sticker on the card...

At one time I wondered why would I need the internet... The computer is for running programs...

There was no internet when I got my first computer... After a couple of long distance moves, I ended up without a computer for several years..

After eventually buying another computer, I quickly got the answer to that question when the first thing I needed to do was download updates to fix a problem...

Hi,

Something I forgot to mention... You might try resetting\clearing your Bios...

There should be a button or jumper to do this.. If nothing else, remove the watch battery on the motherboard for 15 minutes or so...

With all of the plugging and unplugging of memory, cards, and etc., it may be confused...

I have had to do that before simply because I changed the memory I was using...

Hi,

I will stick with you on this machine, either until the problem is resolved, or you decide to replace it...

Granted that the machine is a bit dated, but my thoughts are that it would be shame to trash it because of these issues, and it actually not be the computer's fault... I know how that goes with investing money in hardware\repairs, and not getting the desired results...

SFC /SCANNOW would show any damaged Windows files, and may or may not fix them...

An ISO is simply an exact copy of a file... usually a CD or DVD... Very similar to creating an Image of your operating system drive...

If you extract one like you mentioned, it will not be bootable, but the files on it can be used for a In-Place Upgrade... Just run the SETUP file from within a functioning Windows...

There are free utilities to burn a ISO to a CD\DVD, but since you don't think that will work, we can do the Flash Drive...

First... download a free tool called RUFUS... https://rufus.ie/Select the "Portable" version...

Download the ISO from the Create Media Site....

If you already have the earlier (1803) ISO that you mentioned, you might also use that, and just be quick to block the 1809..

Second... Plug in the Flash Drive and launch RUFUS... Then just Browse to the location of your ISO...

Your machine does not use UEFI Bios, so you would select a "MBR" type drive...

This is what RUFUS should look like, except that the name of my drive and file will be different...

If you want to try something less drastic than a fresh install Windows, you might try running the Windows 10 installation from within your current Windows if you think it will run long enough...

If nothing else. that will retain all of your programs, drivers, and stuff... It that doesn't work, you then do the fresh install... You know better than I what you will need to reinstall after reinstalling Windows...

Hi,

I forgot to post the link to the Create Media site...

http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

This will require downloading a tool that you will run to launch the media creation...

You will have a choice of a DVD, Flash Drive, or ISO... Personally I prefer the ISO as it is more versatile...

You can than burn it to a DVD with any Image burning tool, or to a Flash Drive with a free tool called RUFUS...

If you do this from a different machine, make sure you indicate that so you can choose the proper build and etc...

Hi,

You're actually doing quite well in comparison to other threads I've been involved with...

Should it come to it... There is something short of reinstalling Windows that might be helpful...

That would be to manually upgrade your Windows 10 to a newer build...

This will replace damaged files, but may retain settings that could be a potential problem...

The thing is... Right now you are being pestered about Windows 10 version (1809)... Which has had issues since it was released.. It doesn't work too bad on my machine, but the Forum is full of people with problems...

In a couple of weeks or less, there is going to be ANOTHER new version...

Instead of the (1803) you started with, or the (1809) that keeps failing, this one will be (1903)...

I don't know if the final build of the version to be released to the public has been determined yet, but it is very close...

Hi,

I forgot to mention that the "Verifying DMI Pool Data said "Update successful."" means that your Bios Settings changed... Either to default or to a previous "working" setting...

This is either due to a hardware problem, or simply adding\removing devices...

Your getting too concerned about the adapter card... The drivers you used for your card worked fine... This stuff about the failed Feature Update AMD64 is confusing you...

This has nothing to do with your adapter... This is a completely updated new version of Windows 10 that was released to overcome a problem with a previous release involving AMD CPU's...

You have a Intel CPU... Which is why it makes no sense that it attempted to install on your computer..

But again... this talk concerning AMD and Intel has nothing to do with your I\O Crest SATA card...

It is all concerning motherboard issues...

Because it is for motherboard issues for a motherboard you do not have, I think it is responsible for your problems.. It certainly won't hurt to test your memory though...

Hi,

There probably files on your computer... The question is if any changes were made during the failure... You can right click on your OS drive, select Properties... Disk Cleanup...

After the first scan click on "Cleanup System Files" on the lower left...

That stuff about (1809)AMD has nothing to do with your PCIe card... It is concerning the chipset in use on your motherboard, which is Intel...

That was not a driver update for AMD... That was a entire new version of Windows 10... Probably a 3GB or so download...

The problem with Disabling Windows Update in Services is twofold...

You can not manually search for updates with it disabled, unless you are planning on using the "Update Catalog"... Even then, some updates will not install manually if the Service is Disabled...

When you set the Service back to manual, you need to be really quick running the Show-Hide tool to stop anything you do not want... Microsoft intentionally made this difficult..

The second issue is that Windows Defender and Antivirus will update automatically regardless...

Hi,

What the image you posted means is that the tool was unable to block the Windows Defender Update for some reason... It may have already been downloading at the time...

The "Feature Update to Windows 10, version 1809 amd64" is the name of the update that will appear in the Show-Hide tool...  Anything that mentions "Feature Update" is a version of windows 10... It appears as though it may have tried to install three times...

I'm not even sure why you are getting the "AMD64" version of this update... It was a updated build specifically to fix a AMD problem... Your machine is Intel based..

Hopefully the Windows Update DATA Base Error was the the cause, and has been fixed...

It also may be a factor in why you are having issues with the 1809 build... Or possibly the failed Upgrade caused the Data Base error in the first place...

The System Restore stuff works different now... I no longer use it..

For one thing, it is now turned off by default...

I found that creating a System Image with a bootable 3rd party tool works best for me...

An Image saves stuff that a System Restore may not... It is limited in what it actually saves for a Restore..

I personally prefer Acronis TrueImage... Unlike others, it does not need to be installed to create bootable media... The retail CD is bootable, and can be imaged to a flash drive fairly easily...

You need bootable media to restore an image anyway, and installing the program just clutters stuff up with a bunch of processes I don't like..

It is on special frequently for $10 after rebate... Otherwise it may be $40 for the basic single use version, which is what I use...

I'm also glad your 4TB drive worked out before the crashing started... That would have been another uncertainty that might have been blamed on the wrong source...

Hi,

Sorry about that... I'm not sure how that happened... Try this one... This is the direct download link...

http://download.microsoft.com/download/f/2/2/f22d5fdb-59cd-4275-8c95-1be17bf70b21/wushowhide.diagcab

Those latest updates were rather "Major" updates... The one that failed is an upgrade to a completely new build released in October 2018... It has been problematic from the very start, to the point that Microsoft pulled it shortly after the release to the public...

You should be able to block\hide it with the Show-Hide tool... That is the primary reason I use it, to block new builds when I am testing an older one...

The "Manual (triggered)" for Windows Update is the default, and is "triggered" by processes in the

"Task Scheduler".... It's basically the same as "Auto" in the way it actually works...

I don't know if the damage can be undone from the update... Did you reload a backup image or something the last time ? If so, I would unhook your internet connection to buy time to deal with the update, before reloading it...

EDIT... The second link was bad as well... I don't know what is going on with that... It was in English when I saved the link... Anyway... I deleted it, and the direct link downloads in English...

Hi,

I'm glad your HDD is working... The reason you were told it would not support over 2TB may be because of XP\Vista\ Win 7 before SP1 may not have supported the GPT type partitioning..

That pretty much started with the introduction of UEFI Bios around 2010...

Our machines we have been discussing do not support UEFI Bios, but seem to support the GPT...

Windows 7 SP1 supports UEFI, but I don't know when that actually started...

I don't actually remember when I started seeing the "GPT (GUID)" option appear when initializing a drive...

For your Windows Update... You can go to Windows Update and select "View Update History", but it doesn't give a definitive time... It does list the Updates in Order and states whether they were Successful or Failed...

If you go to "Programs and Features", you can also select "View Update History" there...

This has a different manner of listing... Like Windows 7...

Some updates can be uninstalled here, and some can not...

There is a tool that can be used to block\hide specific updates... It is not 100% effective, but works more than not... This doesn't install... Just runs from memory...

At the bottom of the provided link is a tool to "Show-Hide" Windows Updates...

You can use this to block most all Windows Updates and\or allow the ones you want...

When I use this I set Windows Updates to Disabled in Services, and stop the service to prevent anything from starting before I'm ready... At times I even resort to disabling my internet adapter in Device Manager...

Everything must be enabled to run the tool though... Just don't Start Windows Update in Services... The tool will do that..

When you run the tool, be sure to click on the Advanced at the bottom and uncheck the box to "Apply Repairs Automatically"...

Blocking the updates will allow you to easier diagnose the problem by allowing just one at a time to install...

https://support.microsoft.com/fi-fi/help/3073930/how-to-temporarily-prevent-a-driver-update-from-reinstalling-in-window

Hi,

Take a look at the reviews at NewEgg for this card... Especially the first couple...

Also take a look at the Overview...

More info than the manufacturer's website...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816124070

The reviews state NOT to use the included drivers, but to let Windows take care of it...

One person states that there is a specific sequence that needs to be followed when hooking up the drives to get all 8 to work...

The Overview states that 3-4TB GPT drives are the maximum size supported if I'm understanding that correctly...Max

And check out this specific review...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/SingleProductReview.aspx?reviewid=4399846

Hi,

I can't guarantee it, but I can find no reason your motherboard would not be able to use over 2TB drives...

I'm also not sure what you mean by pciex adapter cards... It;s probably just the terminology... I simpy call them PCIe... I found a number of them with a quick search...

I would not worry about the Windows 10 Compatibility... I have not had problems with any of my add on cards running Windows 10...

Hi,

I suspect that maybe one of your SATA cards may be the problem, but it could be a memory stick you haven't tried yet...

Most importantly concerning your HDD size... You should be able to run a HDD larger than 2TB...

I have a similar Gigabyte EP45-UD3R motherboard with the same Intel Chipsets...

I am currently running a 3TB and a 4TB drive on it, along with a 2TB and a 120GB SSD...

The trick is that the HDD over 2TB needs to be "Initialized" as a "GPT (GUID)\NTFS type drive, instead of the traditional MBR\NTFS...

I will check on your motherboard for any restrictions using a GPT drive, but I doubt that there is...

This is more of a Windows Issue than a motherboard issue...

Hi,

Let me know how it goes...

I do not doubt that the extra memory would be recommended... My point is that over time, the memory is made from different batches of chips, and sometimes the different batches don't match up well for various reasons...

Then of course they might also develop problems after being in use awhile...

Hi,

When exactly did the computer start having problems with the freezing ?

Just to try and narrow things down in my mind...

As a note on memory... I purchased two G.SKILL 4GB DDR2 packages... 4 sticks... 8GB total...

I overclocked the memory and they worked great... However, sometime later there was a good sale on another package of supposedly the exact same memory, so I bought one for spares...

I removed two of the sticks I had and replaced them with the new... The Bios crashed at boot...

I switched them with the other two sticks, and the same thing...

I had to remove the overclock to get the machine to even boot with the two new sticks...

Even then it was unreliable, and I had to "Underclock" them...

After some conversations with GSKILL concerning this, they stated that memory modules from different batches sometimes don't play together nicely... I returned the 3rd set for a refund, put the others back in, and have been running that way for around 8 years now...

One of my concerns would be the one HDD you already mentioned... The one that seemed to have a bad daisy chain connection that worked on another plug.. I have had a couple of HDD's that had a problem with their SATA and\or power connection... The actual HDD, not the cables...

I could get then to work, but they were very finicky as to any type of disturbance...

If you were to decide to through in the towel, I would most certainly understand that...

There is no guarantee that a new machine would be painless....

It would almost certainly require modifications to get similar hardware as you have now...

Unless of course you build one from scratch...

That is what I do now... I quickly tied of trying to upgrade or modify a pre-built machine from a major manufacturer... They do to much customizing of Cases, motherboards, and etc., to the point that most everything I wanted to do was not possible due to the design of the machine...

I don't have a problem working with you on this... It's kind of interesting...

So if you want to give it a shot, I will help as much as I can...

BTW... I know nothing about your repair technician, but they are not all created equal..

Hi,

I have a machine older than that, and it still works great... Although it is missing some of the more modern features... Like you, I have added USB 3.0 and extra SATA cards...

You might switch the memory module you are using with another... Or try a different slot...

Memory can have issues that can be hard to detect...

So can HDD's... I have had HDD's that pass diagnostics, but still functioned poorly...

You mentioned one that would not work on one power plug, but would work on another...

You might want to further investigate that drive...

Concerning your Stop Code Error... I found this short description...

WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR (Windows stopcode 0x0000124) is a hardware error. There are several common causes for a WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR (we’ll abbreviate it as WUE), most of which directly relate to your system hardware:

Corrupt hardware (Damaged hard drives, GPU, CPU, PSU, corrupt RAM, etc.)

Driver compatibility issues

Heat and voltage issues (Overclocking and voltage changes)

Corrupt Windows system files or registry file

It is possible that some of your issues have corrupted your Windows Installation and the Reset will help**...**

Another thing you might try is to Reset your Bios**...** With all of the additions to your machine, it might benefit from one..

Purchasing another machine is up to you... You may have a unfixable problem, but it could be simple and just has not yet been identified..

Hi,

I doubt that anything concerning your older HDD would cause this...

It is most likely caused by a Windows Update that updated a driver, or some other type of driver update, that does not work well with Fast Startup...

There could be other issues, but this is quite common..