Designer Bluetooth Mouse Scroll Wheel Malfunction

> SOLVED LIKE A CHARM <

Hello,

I bought the Microsoft Modern just about 11 months ago.

And yes, about 20 minutes ago the same things that's been described here that demonstrates a huge design flaw happened to me.

I was scrolling my way until all of a sudden the scrolling lost the grip, the wheel just went round and round away without any kind of feeling or click.

First I followed the first instructions I found to disassemble the mouse (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4-oaCAv-i0)

Its very very easy... just lift the upper cover starting from the left mouse button and work your way to the back side and then to the left mouse button.

Under there you need a number 5 star shaped screwdriver (technical name is written around here somewhere) which I happen to had, and then after taking apart the board and the wheel, the gluing process I followed was:

1. Place a drop of super glue (in my case I had Lanco Instant Glue) on top of a cardboard (or any paper you can discard later)

2. With the drop of glue laying on top of the cardboard or paper, carefully grab the wheel and gently tap the broken end of the axis to the glue. Then move the wheel away upward making sure that no string of glue remains hanging around, any tiny string of glue could ruin the rolling surface of the axis.

This will result on just the tip of the axis being covered in super glue, and nothing more.

3. With the board separated from the base of the mouse, carefully insert the tip of the axis on its socket, let the other end of the axis rest on top of the middle mouse button, and after pressing in the socket for a couple of seconds, place the board and wheel on the base of the mouse again. You can wait about 20 seconds here to let it dry. Press the wheel like if you where pressing the center mouse button to make sure it feels firm.

4. You are done!, screw the board to the base of the mouse, put the batteries on, and you can try the mouse working.

I only took a picture on this stage (sorry), this are the materials I used, and just in case I marked the end of the axis you need to glue :P

After that I reassemble my mouse, and it works just like new, same feeling, same responsiveness.

Hope it helps!

I also have this problem.  Was in the middle of scrolling and the tactile clicking in the mouse wheel rotation suddenly stopped and scrolling no longer works.  I am at just under a year and will see what Microsoft will do about this.

and where is it possible to find a replacement of wheel?

Same here. This is my second Designer mouse in 6 months. Both broke at the level of the axle of the scroll wheel. I glued it back after performing something I qualified as akin to brain surgery. Worked for 2 more weeks. If I justcould find a spare part I'd be happy, because I really like the device otherwise...

The scroll wheel is connection to the rotary encoder fails, loosing the hex drive portion.

It is easy to replace, if you can find a spare part.  No soldering is required.

You will need a Torx driver size T-5.

I'm sure there is YouTube video supporting opening the Designer Mouse, but if not:

The top pops off (use a small flathead screwdriver to pry, first one side, then the other on the end away from the scroll wheel.  Once that cover is off, there are 4 screws requiring a Torx T5 driver.

Once the screws are out, separate the inner cover from the base.  You can use one of the 'hinges' on the end away from the scroll wheel to help separate.

Then there are 3 Torx T-5 screws holding the board down.  

You will need to have removed the batteries and unplugged the wires (white connector, red wire on outside) from the board.  There are small plastic guide pins through the board - so lift gently from the end of the board away from the battery compartment, until you can release the board from the plastic guide pins, then pull it out - the battery buttons come out with it. 

If you have the same problem I had, the scroll wheel will not be attached to the rotary encoder on the board, and the wheel will no longer have the 'hex' drive end intact.

Replace the wheel by inserting the new wheel into the rotary encoder, engaging the hex drive.  

Re-assemble.  You will be able to test it as soon as you assemble the board to the housing, and before you completely close it up.

Good luck - and BTW - does Microsoft provide a way to get the wheel?  I used a mouse that had died due to battery leakage.